We did not get off to the best of starts in Fiji. Santander performed their customary “block your card upon arrival” ritual. We then lost my phone SIM card (don’t we have the best luck with phones?!) and had to spend our remaining $70 on a new one to call Santander as part of the now-standard Arrive In A New Country Dance. While these shenanigans were going on, the President of China happened to land on the flight after ours and the roads were closed for nearly 2 hours leaving us trapped at the airport. Ace.
No matter. We were looking forward to arriving at Seashells@Momi Bay, where we were met by a friendly porter who cheerfully informed us we were the only guests in the resort. He wasn’t wrong. And this wasn’t a small resort. I don’t know whether I can quite articulate the mildly creepy feeling of staying in a 7 acre resort all alone, or coming down to the dining terrace, and seeing only one table set up. At least we always got a sunbed though, which meant we got a ringside view of the sunset every day. Fiji, it turns out, does sunsets very, very well indeed.
No matter; we weren’t here for the resort, ambiance (or food, thankfully!). We were here to dive. And boy, dive we did.
Scuba Bula is jointly owned by a lovely British couple – Adam and Carrie – and a Fijian called Sam (Scuba Sam, to give him his full title) who has been diving on the reef at Momi Bay for over 20 years. We couldn’t have been in better hands. The perfect hosts, Sam and his fellow instructor the cheery Api took us to pristine dive spot after pristine dive spot. We dived at vast walls of coral, with shoals of parrotfish, dodged a mean trigger fish and even saw our first sharks!
After the rather disappointing experience at the Barrier Reef, we felt like the only people in a very alive, very healthy ocean. On the way back to shore, we often bumped into a pod of dolphins who lived on the reef. They would race the boat, and jump out of the water all around us. It was amazing. And totally worth staying in the Resort of Lost Souls.
If you want to dive in Fiji with Scuba Bula
- We would highly recommend Scuba Bula. The dive sites are a little more challenging than we have done before (deeper and with more currents) but we felt in totally safe hands and the passion the team have for diving is contagious.
- Scuba Bula can be contacted here; their website has clear and transparent pricing depending on what dive options you are looking for, and the diving is superb value. They are located about an hour from Nadi and the lovely Carrie can assist with transport and booking at the local resort if you want to stay over (our tip – avoid the cheapest rooms; the larger air con rooms are well worth the upgrade).
Just a quick aside – this rave review is entirely due to our great experience with Scuba Bula; we paid full going rate for our dives with them.